During Prohibition, a "speakeasy" was the term for an illicit drinking establishment where you were among like-minded people and didn't have to worry about being busted by the cops or federal alcohol agents.
Somehow, the term was appropriated several years ago to refer to a cocktail lounge with a certain vibe -- usually dark, often with lots of heavy wood, sometimes with a hidden entrance, maybe a secret password, often with no exterior signage.
In most places, that fad has pretty much run its course. So, the obvious question is, what's next?
Here's a very interesting article published earlier this year on what's next in the design of hip bars and cocktail lounges. (Thanks to George Fiorini of the Savoy Taproom in Albany for spotting it.)
WILLIAM M. DOWD's world of news, notes and reviews on spirits, wines, beers and ciders
Saturday, December 17, 2016
Don't always buy it just because it's on Facebook
Interesting Facebook post Friday from a Lark Street restaurant in Albany:
"It is with very mixed emotions that I am announcing the sale of Kinnaree Asian Restaurant. Kinnaree opened almost six years ago on January 9, 2011. ... The new owner, Panitan [Eamroongroj], is also the chef. ... The menu will not be changing and the friendly staff you are accustomed to will still be here. Please be aware however, that during this transition Kinnaree’s alcohol license will be suspended until the new owner’s application can be approved. Chef Chai and I do not have any immediate plans for ourselves at this time ...What makes it so interesting isn't so much the sale of a restaurant. That happens all the time. It is that last Sunday the same business posted this on Facebook:
(signed) Jamaree [Raj]"
"KINNAREE will be CLOSED for maintenance and repairs on MONDAY, TUESDAY, and WEDNESDAY, December 12, 13 & 14th. We are sorry for the inconvenience and look forward to serving you again during our normal hours beginning on Thursday."Were the "maintenance and repairs" so monumental they had to sell the place? I doubt it. It appears to be just one more example of a restaurant closing temporarily or permanently and not being candid with the public about it. We see too much of that.
Multi-maker cider extravaganza at Nine Pin
If you couldn't gain admission to the "Gathering of the Farm Cideries" last year -- it sold out quickly -- you'll have another chance on Saturday, February 18.
Nine Pin Cider Works, located at 929 Broadway in Albany, will host the third annual celebration of craft cider makers on its production floor. Farm cideries across the state will be represented, offering visitors free samples of unique batches of ciders all made from New York-grown apples. Numerous limited batches of cider will be available for sale.
This is a ticketed event with two sessions -- noon to 3 p.m. and 4 to 7 p.m. Tickets, which include admission and an event-branded tasting glass, now are on sale online at $20 per person, with any leftover tickets going for $30 at the door the day of the event. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the New York Cider Association.
Nine Pin, incidentally, will begin a monthly first-Saturday series of tours of the 17,000-square-foot facility with cider maker Kevin Brew on January 7. Limited tickets are available through the website.
Notes On Napkins resuming in the New Year
-- From Bill Dowd
After a layoff of 10 months to devote research and writing time to some other projects, my food-and-restaurant blog Notes On Napkins will be coming back in January 2017, right after the holiday bustle has receded.
It will resume being an informative companion to Dowd On Drinks, occasionally with a little bit of crossover between the two blogs when dealing with topics involving both food and drink, but mostly dealing with their specialty topics.
Both will continue to concentrate on New York's Greater Capital Region (and a slice of western New England), but won't hesitate to go farther afield when something interesting comes up,
As always, your participation is welcomed. That includes submitting comments on posts, or sending along news of special events, menu changes, major staff changes, openings and -- sometimes regrettably -- closings, and other news tidbits. If you put this email address --
After a layoff of 10 months to devote research and writing time to some other projects, my food-and-restaurant blog Notes On Napkins will be coming back in January 2017, right after the holiday bustle has receded.
It will resume being an informative companion to Dowd On Drinks, occasionally with a little bit of crossover between the two blogs when dealing with topics involving both food and drink, but mostly dealing with their specialty topics.
Both will continue to concentrate on New York's Greater Capital Region (and a slice of western New England), but won't hesitate to go farther afield when something interesting comes up,
As always, your participation is welcomed. That includes submitting comments on posts, or sending along news of special events, menu changes, major staff changes, openings and -- sometimes regrettably -- closings, and other news tidbits. If you put this email address --
notesonnapkinsfacebook@gmail.com -- in your contact list right now you'll be all set to participate.
Meanwhile, a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy Kwanzaa and Happy New Year to all. Looking forward to getting back together with you in 2017.
15 Days of Holiday Drinks (Day 10)
Several years ago, actresses Natalie Portman and Mila Kunis heated up the movie screen in “The Black Swan,” a twisted psycho-drama about the backstage maneuverings in the world of ballet.
That was the inspiration for this drink from the makers of Maestro Dobel Tequila. Unlike the film, it’s a sweet treat. Literally. However, if its origins are too racy for whoever you plan to serve, you can always call the drink by a milder name -- perhaps something like the Flamboyant Ballerina.
TWISTED SWAN
3 ounces of your favorite blanco tequila
¼ ounce raspberry liqueur
¼ ounce amaretto liqueur
Crushed dark chocolate
Put the first three ingredients into a shaker with several cubes of ice, Stir, strain into a chilled cocktail glass that has had the rim coated with the crushed chocolate. Garnish with a maraschino cherry or several fresh raspberries and serve.
3 ounces of your favorite blanco tequila
¼ ounce raspberry liqueur
¼ ounce amaretto liqueur
Crushed dark chocolate
Put the first three ingredients into a shaker with several cubes of ice, Stir, strain into a chilled cocktail glass that has had the rim coated with the crushed chocolate. Garnish with a maraschino cherry or several fresh raspberries and serve.
Friday, December 16, 2016
Bad weather didn't ruin NY's grape harvest after all
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| A snowy Finger Lakes grape harvest (Rochester D&C photo) |
The persistent drought and heat of the summer made for a worrisome growing season for Finger Lakes area grape growers, but in the end, wine drinkers will likely enjoy some delicious wines made from 2016 grapes.Go here for the full story and a video of late harvesting in the snow.
Now that nearly all of the grapes have been harvested, crushed and pressed, most winemakers are excited about what they have fermenting in barrels and tanks. During the summer and fall, most of New York experienced the state’s worst drought since the U.S. Drought Monitor began weekly reporting in January 2000. In addition, it was the second-warmest season since Cornell started keeping records in the 1970s ... .
In the end, the harvest varied significantly from place to place. "What happens on one site can be very different from what happens on another site," said Chris Gerling, extension association for enology at Cornell University. Each winery was impacted by whether the area had a well-timed, pop-up thunderstorm and whether the soil in that area retained moisture. Other factors included how the site had been managed, and any accumulated effects from the previous years' weather.
Wine & Grape head shares some parting thoughts
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| Jim Trezise always has something up his sleeve. |
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| Sam Filler |
On January 1, 2017, some positive changes will occur in the grape and wine industry, both in New York State and nationally.
Sam Filler will officially become executive director of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, and I will become president of WineAmerica, the national organization of American wineries based in Washington, DC. Both changes have been long-planned and thoroughly discussed to ensure a smooth transition.
As Governor Andrew Cuomo noted at the most recent [wine, beer and spirits] Summit, his father, the late former Governor Mario Cuomo and I created the Foundation in 1985 during a time of economic crisis in the New York grape and wine industry. So, I feel it's sort of like my 31-year-old child, and I want to see it continue to grow another 31 years.
When I notified the Foundation Board of Directors more than a year ago of my desire to find a successor so it could continue well into the future, we conducted a formal search which resulted in Sam's selection. However, I also want to finish up some special projects, and to make sure Sam is well oriented, so I will remain president until March 31 and spend the first three months of the year helping get him up to speed. I'll also continue writing The Wine Press for a couple more months.
I am fully confident that Sam will do a great job and take the Foundation to the next level. We currently have a great board, a fabulous staff, financial stability, and widespread respect which, in combination, set the stage for a bright future.
For the past four years, Sam has been director of industry development for the craft beverage sector within Empire State Development. In that capacity, he has come to know the industries well in terms of structure, marketing, laws and regulations, and also has managed $3 million in grants for promoting New York craft beverages. He also is a participant in the superb LEAD NY program which grooms future leaders in agriculture.
WineAmerica is a vital organization for American wineries, especially at a time of major transition in Washington. It coordinates grassroots public policy advocacy to protect and enhance the business climate for wine. Excise tax reform, immigration reform, music licensing, trade policy, research funding, and export promotion are just a sampling of the many issues affecting wineries.
With a totally new administration taking office in January, and the many uncertainties that brings, WineAmerica's role is more important than ever. I've served on the executive committee of its board of directors for more than 20 years, and have worked closely with staff members Tara Good (director of operations) and Michael Kaiser (director of public affairs). As its president, I look forward to assisting their excellent efforts to build WineAmerica and its ability to represent the American wine industry. WineAmerica also has retained an excellent government affairs firm, Meyers & Associates, to make our case with the new administration and Congress.
I also will continue running the International Riesling Foundation, judging in major wine competitions, and remaining engaged in the wine industry in other ways -- all from my home on Keuka Lake, with travel as necessary to fulfill those functions.
Over the past year, many friends have congratulated me on my "retirement," which I genuinely appreciate. However, the "R" word is just not part of my vocabulary, but the "T" word -- transition -- is. In fact, I'll probably be busier than ever, fortunately with all of my activity still in the wine industry which I love. And I'll never stop promoting New York wines.
Chatham Brewing rings in Noel's Belles ale
If you're ever feeling bored and want to read something that peps you up, try taking a look at recipes from craft breweries. I swear even a first-rate restaurant chef would have a hard time coming up with some of the combinations that take basic brews to other places.
The latest example of one that caught my eye is something that Chatham Brewing came up with for the holidays, called Noel's Belles, and released Thursday. It's a barrel-aged Dubbel -- Ghent Bhent aged with tart cherries in toasted oak barrels. It rings in at 8.5% ABV.
In addition to being available at Chatham Brewing's 59 Main Street venue in Chatham, Columbia County, the very limited product also is available at Grand Cru Beer & Cheese Market, Quinn's, Craft Beer Cellar, Beer World, Half Time, Dyadr, Slidin' Dirty Restaurant and Food Truck, Savoy Taproom, The Ruck, Shindig, The City Beer Hall, Century House, The Barrelhouse, and The Sports Grill of East Greenbush.
The latest example of one that caught my eye is something that Chatham Brewing came up with for the holidays, called Noel's Belles, and released Thursday. It's a barrel-aged Dubbel -- Ghent Bhent aged with tart cherries in toasted oak barrels. It rings in at 8.5% ABV.
In addition to being available at Chatham Brewing's 59 Main Street venue in Chatham, Columbia County, the very limited product also is available at Grand Cru Beer & Cheese Market, Quinn's, Craft Beer Cellar, Beer World, Half Time, Dyadr, Slidin' Dirty Restaurant and Food Truck, Savoy Taproom, The Ruck, Shindig, The City Beer Hall, Century House, The Barrelhouse, and The Sports Grill of East Greenbush.
15 Days of Holiday Drinks (Day 9)
This is a very cool party cocktail. Be sure to add the remaining grapes at the very last minute, advise the editors of “1001 Cocktails” where I found the recipe, “then watch them liven up your drink as they jump around, making even more bubbles.”
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS
Pink Champagne or other pink sparkling wine
5 or 6 red or black grapes
Splash of mandarin liqueur
Fresh ice
Put aside two grapes. Crush or muddle the others in a small bowl to let the juice flow. Add ice and liqueur, stir well, then strain into a chilled Champagne goblet. Top up with Champagne. Cut the remaining grapes in half, remove the seeds, then add them to the glass just as you're ready to serve and enjoy the show.
Thursday, December 15, 2016
What are the 2 best beers brewed in NYS? Really?
Anyone who reads my posts on adult beverages with any regularity knows how little regard I have for "best of" lists in general. But, sometimes a list pops up that is so ridiculous I feel compelled to mention it. This is one of those.
Men's Health magazine, which usually is a lot more about sex, drinking, clothes and electronic gadgets than it is about actual health, has come up with a list it labels "The 101 Best Beers in America." The problems begin immediately. It limits the "best" to two per state! A preposterous construct, given the title.
So, knowing full well that it is virtually impossible to reach agreement on even the "best" brews in a single city or county, let alone an entire nation that has more than 5,000 breweries, here's what Men's Health says are the two "best" beers created in New York State, accompanied by comments from the magazine:
Black Ops (American IPA)Brooklyn Brewery
This beer grew out of Brooklyn Brewery’s not-for-sale, barrel-aging experiments, but the Williamsburg operation quickly gave in to pressure and demand, now bottling the silky black ale annually.
There's nothing secret about the magic of Black Ops, though: After four months of bourbon barrel-aging, Brooklyn bottle conditions the stout with Champagne yeast.
The beer holds deep flavors of chocolate, coffee, and the sweet side of bourbon, but the body is lighter, almost wine-like while most big stouts sit thick and heavy.
Other Half Mosaic (American IPA)Other Half Brewing
Brooklyn-based Other Half earned a cult following within its first year of opening, in 2014.
And Mosaic IPA, one of its single-hop series highlighting individual hop varietals (this one, noted for its flavors ranging from berry to pine), displays why the outfit is worthy of such adoration.
“Other Half’s single-hop series is one of the best I have had,” says Tristan Colegrove, general manager and “beer czar” at Haymaker Bar & Kitchen in Manhattan.
Common Roots throwing birthday bash on Saturday
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| Bert (left) and Christian Weber |
From noon to 10 p.m. visitors will be able to sample new releases among other beers. Among the food vendors on hand will be Raul's Mexican Grill of Glens Falls and Wood Fired Pizza Baked by Jordan, and live music will be performed by Chris Baird, John Coleman and Bohm Dialogue.
Common Roots, located at 58 Saratoga Avenue in South Glens Falls, was founded by the father-son team of Bert and Christian Weber. Local beer blogger Matthew "Fuj" Scher just posted a nice Q&A with Christian. You can find it here.
Stronger beer on tap in Tennessee for 2017
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| This was the logo for the ABV-hike push. |
Tennessee brewers will be able to make higher alcohol content beers without a specialty license currently required. What that means is a new alcohol by volume (ABV) limit of about 10.1% compared to the current 6.2%. The new law also will allow grocery and convenience stores to sell high-alcohol beers now available only in liquor stores and restaurants/bars with a liquor license.
The bill -- which actually was passed by the state legislature in 2014 but had a waiting period -- is seen as a major advance for the state’s flourishing craft beer industry. Tennessee ranks No. 23 nationally in the number of craft breweries, compared to its No. 27 ranking one year ago. Proponents of the revised law had argued for it by saying current law inhibited growth.
Saratoga Springs tequila creator gets a national nod
Things are going well with Lisa Elovich in her latest career. The creator and owner of One With Life Tequila founded the company in 2015, and it immediately was named the No. 1 Organic Tequila by Tequila Aficionado magazine.
Sales of what she calls "OWL" for its acronym were 1,000 bottles last year, on course to triple that this year, and to triple again next year, big numbers considering it so far is sold only in New York, Ohio and Florida.
On Wednesday, it was announced that Elovich was one of 100 people named to the "Bizwomen’s Women to Watch" list for 2016, an annual compilation provided by the Business Review national chain of financial newspapers.
Elovich, 51, a resident of Saratoga Springs and native of Long Island, calls herself a "serial entrepreneur." Her resume includes being a judge, assistant district attorney, deputy attorney general, boxing promoter ... and probably will have more entries as time goes on.
OWL is created in Mexico's Jalisco state by the Tequilas Las Americas distillery. (By Mexican law, tequila may be distilled only in Jalisco and several specifically designated neighboring areas.)
She describes OWL as being "produced by organic farming, which sustains the health of our environment, its interconnected ecosystems and people. OWL‘s organic production system excludes synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, hormones, genetically modified organisms and artificial enhancements. As we seek to rid our diets of processed foods and drinks loaded with sulfites, complex sugars and other additives, OWL is consistent with this healthy goal."
In keeping with Elovich's holistic philosophy -- she was at one time a life coach -- each OWL bottle contains an inspirational message, and its website offers visitors an opportunity to submit one of their own for consideration.
The next two Capital Region tastings of One With Life tequila are scheduled for Friday, December 23, from 4 to 7 p.m. at Purdy's Wines, 70 Congress Street, Saratoga Springs, and 6 to 9 p.m. at Exit 9 Wine & Liquor, 9 Halfmoon Crossing, Clifton Park.
Sales of what she calls "OWL" for its acronym were 1,000 bottles last year, on course to triple that this year, and to triple again next year, big numbers considering it so far is sold only in New York, Ohio and Florida.
On Wednesday, it was announced that Elovich was one of 100 people named to the "Bizwomen’s Women to Watch" list for 2016, an annual compilation provided by the Business Review national chain of financial newspapers.
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| Lisa Elovich |
OWL is created in Mexico's Jalisco state by the Tequilas Las Americas distillery. (By Mexican law, tequila may be distilled only in Jalisco and several specifically designated neighboring areas.)
She describes OWL as being "produced by organic farming, which sustains the health of our environment, its interconnected ecosystems and people. OWL‘s organic production system excludes synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, hormones, genetically modified organisms and artificial enhancements. As we seek to rid our diets of processed foods and drinks loaded with sulfites, complex sugars and other additives, OWL is consistent with this healthy goal."
In keeping with Elovich's holistic philosophy -- she was at one time a life coach -- each OWL bottle contains an inspirational message, and its website offers visitors an opportunity to submit one of their own for consideration.
The next two Capital Region tastings of One With Life tequila are scheduled for Friday, December 23, from 4 to 7 p.m. at Purdy's Wines, 70 Congress Street, Saratoga Springs, and 6 to 9 p.m. at Exit 9 Wine & Liquor, 9 Halfmoon Crossing, Clifton Park.
15 Days of Holiday Drinks (Day 8)
This cocktail was created by barman Jim Hewes at the Round Robin & Scotch Bar in Washington, DC. It is part of his Triple Crown series of drinks, and makes great use of that brilliant American icon, bourbon, with a trio of citrus juices.
BLACK-EYED SUSAN
2 parts Jim Beam Bourbon
½ part orange liqueur
1 part lemon juice
1 part orange juice
½ part lime juice
½ part raspberry liqueur
Mix all ingredients except the raspberry liqueur with ice in a mixing glass. Then place the raspberry liqueur in a chilled martini glass, and float contents of mixing glass into the martini glass. Garnish with a blackberry and a twist of orange.
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